For the love of the ocean I was drawn to play in the waves. Living in a sleepy beach town, in California, I watched the magical ritual of all different souls connect through the movement of waves.
I want to share these lessons and gifts of surfing because maybe there is something that you might want to start, but you are afraid of failing. It can be anything new that feels intimidating. Sometimes it is the very thing that scares you is exactly what you need. Although it was a bit intimidating at first, I am forever grateful that I began surfing for all the lessons it has taught me about life.
1. Have fun and don’t take it too seriously
There are loads of surfers out there who will try to make surfing a serious sport. In fact, it can be serious if you want it to be. But just like in life, no one makes it out without falling. sometimes you only have a certain amount of time on the wave. Why not make it a creative expression and flow to the rhythms with harmony. That is exactly life. We only have a short speck of time here, make it yours, and don’t take it too seriously.
2. You are capable of so much more than you think
I have often surprised myself with things that I never thought I would do. I remember when I first started surfing someone told me, ” you’ll never be able to go down the line”. That feels like so long ago, but I believed in myself and found inspiration in people who encouraged me to keep trying. Feel the freedom beyond limits and imagine all the things you can accomplish.
3. Practice makes perfect
Try again and again. Every time there is an opportunity to go out and practice, do it! Feel all the ways to use surfing as an outlet of expression for emotion.
4. To appreciate something bigger than myself
Being out in the ocean in all different conditions has humbled me many days, and given me the opportunity to feel the power of something over me. The ocean and water is a great force that should always be respected. Feel the clarity, cleansing, and raw power of the elements surrounding you.
5. It is all about balance and breath
Paddling out, you lose your breath and the excitement rushes over. A lump in the distance and your heart starts to race with anticipation. The truth is that the best way is to become one wight he waves and water. Breathing deeply and calm. Finding grace and balance when its time to take off.
I hope that everyone finds passions that sets your soul on fire, teaches you about life, and prepares you mentally and physically for everything to come. I encourage you to find your own connection with nature and yourself through something you love doing.